Sunday, January 22, 2017

L. Kendall K4 Watch

Rights to the Larcum Kendall name were purchased by the U-Boat group which is the parent company of L. Kendall, and at least in the United States, the place to get them is Grenon's of Newport watches (by Ray Grenon). An enterprising watch retailer with good taste for more interesting brands, Ray showed me the watches that I unfortunately missed at Baselworld. These are weird, but imminently cool watches produced with really nice quality - and the prices are not totally stupid.
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 L. Kendall K4 Watch Hands-On Hands-On
L. Kendall watches are designed by Italo Fontana - who is the designer of U-Boat watches. I'm admittedly not a fan of everything Mr. Fontana has designed, but that is often because he and I simply don't have all the same tastes. I like his work enough to be an overall fan since he has some cool credits to his name. There is very little that is "standard" about L. Kendall watches, but the pieces do a good job of being interesting and thoughtfully conceived. The primary design aesthetic behind the L. Kendall brand's initial watches - which are the K4, K5, K6, and K7 - is historic marine instruments, and Italo went a bit wild with this theme in many of the watches.

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Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Paillonnée Watch

Inside the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Paillonnée is the caliber 25JD automatic tourbillon movement, exclusive to Jaquet Droz. It has a full seven days of power reserve operating at 3Hz (21,600bph). You can see the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback window, and there you'll also see the attractive blue lapis lazuli applique set into the otherwise 18k red gold automatic rotor.
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Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Paillonnée Watch Hands-On Hands-On
The dials are framed by an 18k red gold figure eight, which matches the 18k red gold case. The watch is intentionally bold, even though it is more dressy in its style at 43mm wide (13.1mm thick) - which, for me, is an ideal size since what you are really showing off here is the art of the dial. One of Jaquet Droz's wonderful rolled-side alligator straps (in blue) perfectly compliments the dial color. The composition of the watch is truly top-notch (assuming the overall style appeals to you, as it does myself).

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Sunday, January 15, 2017

Baume & Mercier ‘Legendary Driver’ Capeland Shelby Cobra Limited Edition Watch In Yellow

The McCall's Annual Motorworks Revival serves to kick off the Monterey Car Week which sees thousands of motor enthusiasts gather every year for vintage automobile auctions and racing at the famed Laguna Seca Raceway. So what makes these models unique? Each of these four Baume & Mercier Legendary Driver Capeland Shelby Cobra watches feature a bold 44mm case size and there are two different material variances in either stainless steel or ADLC-steel for a smokier, sleeker finish. Still present under the sapphire crystal, of course, is the tachymeter around the dial, and naturally there is the cobra emblem forged directly into the seconds hand’s counterweight to remind you it means business.
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No. 15 features a hot-yellow take on the tachymeter dial with a yellow-lined black alligator-leather strap and even the seconds hand is yellow for this model. Also, like the No. 15, the No. 50 receives the ADLC-steel treatment that still retains a sporty edge. No. 97 also features a yellow cobra seconds hand and pairs the watch with a slick black rubber strap. No. 97 and 96 feature the stainless steel casings with No. 96 getting the loudest of the straps, a vibrant yellow alligator leather strap with black stitching and lining. A little something for everyone's tastes with these models.

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Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Watch

The Senator Chronometer is the Glashütte, Germany-based brand's first "chronometer" watch. Most people consider "chronometer" watches to be certified by COSC in Switzerland, but that isn't always the case. There are also German chronometer watches which mirror the COSC standards and are certified by the Glashütte Observatory. The watch retailer Wempe - who also produces watches under their house label - apparently set up a certification department in the Glashütte Observatory in about 2006 designed to test watches that fall within certain performance requirements under DIN 8319 standards. 
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This is unlike COSC chronometers which are movements that are tested outside of the watch case. The difference matters, and a better indication of real-world performance is clearly given when movements are tested after being all cased up. This explanation about German chronometers is important and helps explain the "Chronometer" term which is printed on the dial of this German watch, as opposed to the "Chronometer" label which is printed on the dial of, say, a Swiss Rolex watch. German Chronometer certification isn't the only thing which marks the in-house-made Glashütte Original caliber 58-01 movement as being special. To date, I don't believe that any other Glashütte Original movements operate in exactly this way, aside from the caliber 58-04 (an evolution) which exists in the later-released Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator.

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